Hanoi

Hanoi is an amazing city and one of our favorite we've seen so far. It has an interesting mix between modern and traditional with clear influences - architectural and a little cultural as well -  from the French. Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, it was also the center for the French when they were here, and was the center of rule of some of the ancient cultures here as well.

First thing we noticed is that the traffic is insane! Its swarms of motorbikes with cars and bicycles mixed in and absolutely no clear laws. But somehow organized chaos takes shape and it works. Its a bit frightening to cross the street though! Best advice - close your eyes and walking at an even pace as the motorbikes race past..seriously!  The photo below doesn't do the traffic justice,  but you can get a sense of the multi-direction chaos. Another observation, Vietnamsee can carry more things on their bike than an American can fit in their Ford Expedition. Frankly it's mind boggling.  From balloons to 100lbs sacks of rice to gold fish to chickens to mutiple family generations, to ladders to panes of glass.  It makes for incredible people watching.  In fact I highly recommend grabbing a cup of coffee and sitting for a few hours looking over the traffic circle areas..

We did a lot of museums, pagodas and temples, most notably the "Hanoi Hilton" where American troops (including John McCain) were held as POWs during the war.  We also visited the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh and saw his embalmed body...pretty interesting.   Thousands visit the mausoleum everyday and the lines wrap around the city blocks for what seems liks miles.  Luckily we visited early on a weekday morning and didn't have to wait long. His hands and face are lit up by lights and he is surrounded by armed guards.  Basically people walk through, pay their respects and exit...not sure what I was expecting but if I had had to wait 4 hours I would have been a little peeved (although although not my national hero).  It was a pretty surreal experience,  especially watching the former Viet Cong soldiers saluting his body (and the fact that we are American and standing over his body).  That said no one we've met in Vietnam has showed any animus towards us.  Going in there was some concern,  but it seems to have been unwarranted...maybe it's because we aren't hanging out with former Viet Cong and the younger generation didnt experience the "American War" as the Vietnamese call it. 

Large pagoda

Ho Chi Minh mausoleum (and the large lines)

The train comes by 2x per day and comes within inches of the buildings many of which are people's apartments.

Back before tv, internet and other entertainment, Vietnamese farmers would put on "water puppet" shows for their villages. The puppets are carved from wood and the puppeteers move them through a stage on water to tell their story.  Many of the puppets represent the sacred animals such as dragons, snakes, phoenix.  The show is swt to music with traditional Vietnamese instruments. A little corney at times, it still provided some perspective into the lives of farmers. 

Water puppet show stage

Take one part badminton,  one part tennis, one part volleyball, one part soccer and you have this...played right in the middle of the park's sidewalk.

Water puppet on full display

These electrical rat's nests can be found everywhere...it's Thomas Edison's worst nightmare

The Vietnamese coffee has been very good.  Its strong, dark with lots of caffeine (just how Kerry likes her men).  They use this small filter that sits atop the cup and drips the coffee in your mug.  Very tasty, especially the ice coffee with a little milk on those hot afternoons!